Warren G. Harding Home and Library (Number 7 in our Presidential Homes and Library Quest): Teapot Dome and lesser known Big Potato

Portraits of Warren G. and Florence Harding meet guests in the lobby of the Presidential Library

Warren G. Harding: 29th President, 8th Presidential Home/Library, 7 out of 40-ish to go. . . 

The U.S. has had 45 presidents, but with Grover Cleveland serving two non-consecutive terms, Joe Biden is POTUS no. 46. I have a goal of visiting as close to that number of presidential museums/libraries as possible and this month, with our stop in Marion, Ohio, home to Warren G. Harding and his wife, Florence, I'm up to eight such sites for seven different Commander-in Chiefs.  And, as I have found with all such historic places, the Warren G. Harding Home and Presidential Library was well worth the trip.

The Harding Home. Warren and Florence Harding were married in the parlor. 

As part of our "solar eclipse extended weekend" in northern Ohio, we added on other close-by outings to our temporary homebase of Findlay. Since our early "Saturday Arrivals" team is comprised of history buffs (husband, Chris, friends Pam and Quint and son-in-law, Sean and daughter, Rachel - the latter of whom also shares the "presidential sites quest"), we eyed two presidential homes within an hour's drive of our hotel (thanks, Pam, for the preplanning!). We chose the Harding Home for our afternoon tour -but, Rutheford B. Hayes, we'll get you next.

Apparently, we weren't the only folks who thought to enhance their solar eclipse experience. The Harding Home was bustling. In fact, our tour guide told us, they had never been so busy. (But, I hasten to add, "Harding Home busy" is not "Rush-hour-in-Manhattan-busy".  Instead of the standard ten people allowed through the home at one time, they allowed fourteen.)

Sean and Rachel on the front porch, site of the Front Porch Campaigne

Aside from all the logistics tales, the interesting part is, most assuredly, the history and artifacts associated with the 29th President and his wife as told by their home and library. 

Probably most of us know Harding by the "Teapot Dome Scandal" and the rather dark cloud of a shady administration. What was new to me, however, was that all the negativity surrounding Harding came after he died when details of fraud and corruption were exposed. 

Sadly, the scandal with the pleasant-sounding title (I mean, who cannot love a "teapot"?) involved Harding's Secretary of Interior, Albert Fall. He leased out two of the government's biggest oil reserves, one being the Teapot Dome, to private companies for significant personal gain. 

Tour groups during eclipse weekend reached up to fourteen at a time

How much Harding knew of the behind-the-scenes shenanigans is a debatable topic, but there are many, including our tour guide, who also point to the President's strengths: his charisma, gift-of-gab and, good looks.  His wife, Florence, was also a contributor to his success in both running a newspaper as well as running for, and securing, the presidency.

Chris stands alert in security shed

Standing in WGH's footsteps

Reluctant to travel to promote his candidacy, Harding adopted the rather convenient "Front Porch Campaign" where he stayed local and supporters came to him. As the name implies, Harding gave speeches from the front porch of the home that he and Florence built - and were married in - thirteen years prior to the election. From July through October of 1920, the Hardings received over 600,000 guests who spilled way beyond the home's front yard and into the streets. Today, visitors can see the imprints of Harding's feet in the center of the wraparound porch where he stood making his speeches to the crowds.  (That, of course, lead to a photo op).

Fellow history buffs outside the Presidential Library

Our afternoon included a one-hour tour of the interior of the Harding Home; a Victorian-era residence, that, I found surprisingly, not exceedingly big or heavy-handed in decor. In fact, the Harding's master bedroom, is brightly attired in yellow wall coverings and linens with Birdseye maple furniture. Unfortunately, no pictures are allowed and a further disappointment,  no Warren G. Harding home souvenir book available at the gift shop, so I'm describing by memory only.  On the plus side, though, I did pick up a WGH tea mug and a bookmark with Florence's waffle recipe, so a few tangible reminders to take home.

Harding's favorite meal was a waffle topped with chipped beef and gravy. During the Front Porch Campaign, waffles were consistently on the menu. Florence's recipe was published in women's magazines with glowing reviews. The Harding Library now hosts an annual waffle breakfast using Florence's original recipe - we missed it by a week. 

The Press House, remarkably built in two days, housed the press during the 1920 campaign.

Next to the house is a small building known as the "Press House".  A remarkable mail order kit from Sears and Robuck, it was built in two days and housed the members of the press during the 1920 campaign. 

Big potato, a favorite with students of Political Science 

Across from the home is the relatively new Warren G. Harding Library, completed in 2021. It welcomes visitors to the front lobby with two large portraits of President and Mrs. Harding in attractive 1920's fashionable attire. From there, guests can experience the Harding story through documents and belongings of the family, ranging from serious to somewhat silly. There's a large faux potato from Idaho Falls on display - a gift from the residents when Harding visited there in 1923. I'll let you decide which category that figures into, but Rachel and I felt it worthy enough to snap, independently of each other, a photo of it and send out in family group text (met with mixed reviews, btw). We're both Political Science undergrads, so we share an interest in history, government, and curiously, the odd potato.

Mother and Daughter with shared interests, including Presidential Homes/Libraries Quests

We're very glad we made the Warren G. Harding Home and Presidential Library part of our extended weekend:  a stellar stop as part of a solar showcase.

Souvenirs from WGH gift shop include tea mug and Florence's waffle recipe 

Final countdown, we're at eight Presidential Homes/Libraries (that is our strict criteria; homes or libraries, other places of interests, e.g., where a President stayed or dined, doesn't count) for seven presidents. As noted in our President's Day blog  this year, we've been to the following:

• Mount Vernon:  Washington
• Hyde Park, NY and the Little White House, GA:  FDR
• Hermitage, TN:  Jackson
• Gerald Ford Library, Grand Rapids, MI:  Ford
• Taft Home, CN:  Taft
• McKinley Home and Library, Canton, OH:  McKinley

We can now add the Harding Home to the list, potato and all.

Govenor Croswell's Tearoom: After telescoping, scoping out tea time (with telescope ties!)

Governor Croswell's Tearoom in Adrian, Mi

After a telescope-focused weekend, we were ready to scope out a new-to-us tea room. Governor Crosswell's tea room not only brightened our day with great food, ambiance and service, but we discovered it, too, has telescope ties.

On our return trip home from Monday's solar eclipse viewing in Findlay, Ohio, we took a leisurely drive home the next day with a slight detour west and stopped at Govenor Croswell's Tearoom in Adrian, Michigan. It's been on my list of tearooms to visit in my home state, and this week we finally did - and it was worth the detour.

Enjoying afternoon tea fare including sweets, savories and scones.

The tearoom resides in a century-plus old building that, over the decades, housed many different retailers specializing in hats, jewelry and home decor before Al Wilkerson, a native of Adrian, and his wife, Phyllis  purchased it in 2010. Per the tearoom's website, it was the Wilkerson's dream to create a venue that provide a "china and linen" tea experience. 

The named it after another Adrian resident, Charles Miller Croswell, the 17the Governor of Michigan from 1877 to 1881.

Cozy spot for tea in the front bay window.

We arrived shortly after the doors opened and were greeted warmly by Justin who told us we could chose our own table. It was tempting to sit at the very front where two small tables occupy a cozy space in the big bay window, but we selected a table in the center to get the full view of the tearoom's Victorian decor.

A "china and linen" experience still prevails.

High ceilings showcase bright glass chandeliers and walls are painted a soothing sage green punctuated by similarly colored linen napkins on dark tablecloths. (The only distraction was the smattering of Christmas wreaths and garland that are hung on the walls and crown molding, respectively.) Tables are set with a potpourri of colorful china, ready for teapots and three-tiered trays to be ordered and served.

From the menu, one can order a variety of lunch options: sandwiches, soups, quiches and salads. No surprise, I ordered the "high tea" which offers a typical "afternoon tea" selection of scones, sweets and savories. My husband, Chris, chose the tea sandwiches accompanied by a house salad. 

The tea menu is extensive, but, again, no surprise, I ordered a pot of Earl Grey (a pot is included in the "high tea" option).  But, Chris, tried their house special, a black spice tea which he really enjoyed.

Three-tiered tray of tea treats.

A pot of tea comes with "high tea".

The tea fare was delicious - the scones were biscuit-y, but light and tasty. The cream and curd are both made in-house and were amazing. The cream was more buttery than sweet, an excellent blending of flavors.

Lemon curd and cream made in-house and delicious!

Tea sandwiches were also more traditional, including cucumber and roast beef.  The dessert tier was a mix of fruity pastries, but my favorite was the chocolate mousse in a chocolate teacup shell.

The top tier offered two squares of quiche which were okay, but the sandwiches, scones and desserts were the stars.

Plane Wave makes telescopes.

Telescope viewing for the eclipse.

After our wonderful repast, we wrapped up our tea time telling Justin about our solar eclipse outing in Findlay, Ohio. He shared with us that the new owners of Governor Croswell's are a group of investors from Plane Wave, maker of high end telescopes and just down the road from the tea room. 

Governor Croswell's tearoom.

Perhaps it was destiny ( destintea?) that brought us to this lovely tea room with telescope connections after our telescope-utilizing weekend. A perfect way to cap off a weekend of excitement that could not be eclipsed. 

Solar Eclipse viewing in the Path of Totality: Totali-tea Awesome!

Solar Eclipse in the Path of Totality:  Dark sky midday in Findlay, Ohio

This past Monday, April 8th, a solar eclipse took place and with a year of preplanning, and a lot of support from like-minded family and friends, we traveled just a few hours south to Findlay, Ohio to witness an incredible show in the path of totality - or, as we like to say at Barb's Tea Service, the path of totali-tea (and we've got the tea to prove it!).

Day turned to evening, putting on a spectacular show

However one refers to this awesome phenomenon, it doesn't come too often. In fact, the next total solar eclipse that can be seen in the contiguous United States won't occur until August of 2044. So, with the path of totality within a two-hour drive, we signed up for a long weekend of activity sponsored by the Oakland Astronomy Club, a well-organized group of telescope geeks to which my husband, Chris, is a member.

Solar Eclipse Eve:  Team assembled for pizza and sunglasses

What happens during a solar eclipse?  In short, it's when the Moon passes between the Sun and Earth. When the Moon blocks all of the Sun's light, it's a total solar eclipse. And, if one wants to experience total darkness, one needs to be in the path of totality which is why we traveled south. In Findlay, Ohio, we took in four minutes of inky darkness, starting at 3:10 in the afternoon. 

Chris setting up telescope with camera and computer

But, there was more to the show and more to the weekend for us. We were joined by our "local family" (our children in Michigan) and good friends which made it even more of a party. Before the sun-gazing Monday, with a few extra days to settle in, we celebrated April birthdays in a historic hotel and toured a presidential home (future blogs!). But we officially kicked off Solar Eclipse Eve at our hotel dining room with the full team assembled.  Points of order:  pizza, assorted gifts and the distribution of protective eclipse sunglasses. The required T-shirts and eclipse chipse were to follow.

High Tech and Low Tech

Cereal box design inspires a LaCroix box "knock off"

For the big day, the Astronomy Club had reserved a campground exclusively for members and their guests. Accommodations were perfect - lots of room to spread out and clean facilities. With a picnic-like setting, we plunked down chairs, blankets, coolers and bags of snacks while Chris set up his telescope. 

Our group combined high tech with low tech (Cheerio's box viewer inspired a copycat version from a LaCroix carton).

Solar Eclipse T-shirts to commemorate the occasion.

During each phase of the eclipse, starting at the first phase seen in our location at 1:56 until it's final conclusion at 4:26, the Club's  "town crier" bellowed alarms and countdowns. It was like waiting for the ball to drop in Times Square on New Year's Eve, but with a lot more calm and, at point of impact, perhaps a bit more dignity. It was excitement combined with a bit of reverence. We were witnessing nature's spectacular show and all we had to do was observe.

Checking telescope and camera for optimum eclipse viewing

As the sky got darker and the Moon bit bigger chunks of the sun, the temperature took a radical dip (almost ten degrees) and the birds got quieter and flew about, taking a mistaken cue from nature that it was time to get ready for the evening. 

It was "awesome" - a word commonly overused (and, yes, guilty as charged), but in its truest sense, this is the apt descriptor for the solar eclipse. 

Picture taken with Chris' camera attached to his telescope shows corona and flairs

And, although it's critical that one wear protective sunglasses leading up to the eclipse, during the total darkness phase, one can view the sun without protective glasses. In addition, the telescope can pick up the corona and it's fiery, red-purple solar flairs, not ordinarily visible.  Add a camera to the telescope, as Chris did, and those images can be snapped up for continued analysis and awe-invoking reactions.

Solar eclipse swag, chocolate bars didn't make the return home

Eclipse kitsch:  During solar eclipse weekend, I amassed quite a collection of souvenirs to commemorate the occasion:  eclipse chipse, eclipse candle, eclipse T-shirt, eclipse tote bag and two chocolate bars (the last items didn't make it back home).  I also purchased some solar eclipse tea (another future blog), with a label that boldly states, "taste the darkness". (Oh, eclipse tea, you're on!)

Eclipse tea boldly states:  "taste the darkness"!

Along with these treasures, the biggest takeaway was, of course, seeing the total eclipse in the path of totality, with tech geeks, family and friends - and certainly, there's a lot of overlap there.  

So, yes, I'm going to have to say it:  the solar eclipse experience was awesome, totally awesome!

The Flagler Museum: Railcar No. 91 and Afternoon Tea at the Flagler Kenan Pavillion

Afternoon tea at the Flagler Kenan Pavillion

How does one cap off a long-awaited tour of a Palm Beach Gilded Age mansion? Optimally with afternoon tea and - bonus (!) - a visit to a luxury rail car from 1886. 

And, that's exactly what we did. 

The pavilion also houses Flager's private, luxury, train cars.

In January of this year, my husband, Chris, and I ventured to Palm Beach and paid a visit to the Flagler Museum, the onetime Gilded Age home of Henry Flagler, a co-fournder of Standard Oil, and his third wife, Mary Lily Kenan (for more on that, see our post, "The Flagler Museum: A Gilded Age mansion"). After a rewarding walk about the manse, we headed to the Flagler Kenan Pavillion for afternoon tea.

Entrance to tea venue

Beautiful views of the water

The Flagler Kenan Pavillion was built in 2005, in the Beaux Arts style, with floor to ceiling windows that showcase impressive views of the water and West Palm Beach. It's a perfect setting for tea time.

Entrance to the "palace on wheels"

Chris inside Railcar No. 91

But, before we sat down to pink lemonade and a pot of earl grey, we hopped on board Railcar No. 91, the "palace on wheels" built in 1886 for Henry Flagler. The cars provided the comforts of home with a master bedroom, bath and salon. Flagler used this until 1912, a year before his death, to survey work on his railway to Key West. 

The train car had all the comforts of home: tea kettle. .

...private bath

The private cars were impressive, but the tea could use a bit of work.

The "Railcar No. 91" tea room has much to recommend. The views are spectacular and the venue is pretty - open, bright and expansive. Once seated, we were served pink lemonade that was both a refreshing drink as well as a colorful accent to the table. 

Tea room features floor to ceiling windows

Small portions, but delicious tea

However, after that, the service slowed down and turned a little uneven. We waited a long time before we were served tea, but the table next to us had to wait even longer.  Sweets and savories came eventually, but they were exceedingly small and nothing beyond ordinary. 

Afternoon tea at Railcar No. 91 tea venue

Our servers were pushed on this particular day and it may have been we hit the tearoom on a perfect storm of unfortunate events. When we went to the gift shop, we remarked how the customer service rep at the counter was at the tea room just a few minutes earlier, waiting tables. She disclosed that she was called to "pinch hit" for afternoon tea service as they were short staffed.

Harney Whitehall tea, a delicious blend, served at home in Biltmore china

Overall, it didn't take away too much from our afternoon at the Flagler Museum and, on the plus side we truly liked the "Whitehall Tea" that was served. It's a delicious blend of black and oolong teas from Harney and we picked up a tin in the gift shop.

Gold tea service made by Tiffany for Mary Lily. Her initials are engraved on the set.

Another tea highlight of the Flagler Museum experience was viewing the family's collection of fine china and luxury serving ware, including a showstopper of "Gilded Age elegance" - an 18 karat gold tea service made by Tiffany & Co. exclusively for Mary Lily. In fact, the set is engraved with her initials. 

Tea, trains and gold in a Gilded Age: much to enjoy and, perhaps, just a little to polish up.

Whilst we do not have a gold tea service for today's (at home) Whitehall Tea brew, we are pouring it into our reproduction Severes china cup (purchased at another Gilded Age manse, Biltmore).

Flagler Museum: A Gilded Age Mansion, tea and trains in Palm Beach

The Flagler Musuem in Palm Beach, once the home of Henry Flager and wife, Mary Lily

The Flagler Museum, in Palm Beach, began as "Whitehall", a 1902 Gilded Age mansion and wedding gift from Henry Flagler to his third wife, Mary Lily Kenan. In its one hundred years-plus, the Florida mansion experienced dramatic changes, not unlike the lives of its original owners, but for the majority of its existence, it's been a museum - a well-preserved estate that gives visitors a glimpse of how the wealthy partied in, what was at the time, a relatively new resort area. The credit for much of that development is given to Henry Flagler.

A corner of the 5,000 square foot lobby

Henry Flagler, amassed his great fortune as one of the founders of Standard Oil, like his partner, John D. Rockefeller. Set for life in middle age, he could have sat back and retired most comfortably. But, on his first visit to Florida (a recommendation from a doctor treating Flagler's first wife, who suffered a number of health issues), he was charmed and saw immense potential.  That lead to his eventual building of two high-end hotels in St. Augustine in the 1880's. That was followed by more purchases of land along the state's eastern coast, heading south, building railroads and hotels along the way.

Music Room

When Flagler met Mary Lily at a mutual friend's home in Newport in 1891, there was a strong attraction between the two despite their age difference - Flagler was sixty-one and Mary Lily was twenty-three (I'll let you all decide what their respective attractions were). Flagler was also still married to his second wife, who had issues of her own. Ten years later, after a long, fought-after (or, perhaps, more aptly "bought-after") divorce, Flagler and Mary Lily were married. And, then, came that off-the-wedding-registry gift of Whitehall.

Dining Room

Drawing Room

The Flagler Museum has been on my Gilded Age radar for almost a decade. When, my husband, Chris, and I visited St. Augustine in 2016, we made a stop at both of Flagler's hotels (one is now a college and the other is a collector's museum). I knew then, we'd eventually make our way to Palm Beach to see Whitehall. (I actually noted in a blog that we targeted 2022, so just off by a few years, but it was worth the wait!).

Ballroom

But, just driving to Palm Beach is an adventure into another world of pristine roads and sidewalks, bordered by bowing palm trees and shorelines dotted with yachts the size of school busses. It signals to me, that I  have now entered a world where club memberships may be a bit more exclusive than  Costco's and there's no need to for me to flaunt my Kohl's cash.

The Flagler Museum sets the standard of Palm Beach and it greets tourists with its clean white pillared facade and manicured lawn that reaches to the water. Once inside, the lobby - all 5,000 square feet of it - provides the appropriate entry to the home that adds another 95,000 square feet of living space to the total. The many rooms that make up the mansion include: billiards, music room, library, dining room and ballroom. In addition, along with suites for the Mr. and Mrs., there are five guest bedrooms. (Oh, and the master suite included all the modern conveniences, like telephones, electricity and full bathrooms).

Blue Room, one of five guest rooms at Whitehall

I have to say, I really did like the feel and decor of most of Whitehall. Unlike many of the heavy and dark interiors of Newport cottage's, this estate captured the bright and cheery oceanside environment. (I could be happy here).

Mary Lily's bedroom suite

Bathroom with modern conveniences

Whitehall did not stay a family residence for long. After the death of Mary Lily in 1917, her niece inherited the estate and sold it to investors. The new buyers turned the home into Whitehall Hotel in 1925. Another quarter-century later, with owners in financial trouble, the hotel was in danger of being destroyed. Jean Flagler, Flagler's granddaughter, stepped in to save the home and in 1960 it entered its current state as the Flagler Museum 

Chris inside Flagler's Railcar No. 91

But, there’s a little bit more to the Flagler Museum. There’s a lovely glass pavilion that houses not only Railcar No.91, Flagler's private luxury railcar, but a tea room as well. 

And, yes!, we absolutely took in afternoon tea while we were there. We'll cover that in our next blog!

Other Flagler-related BTS connections are two Tea and Tomes reviews:  "King Lehr" and "Last Train to Paradise".  The former a Gilded Age socialite's story that included a rather dismissive account of Flagler and Mary Lily's meet up in Newport and the latter is a detailed account of Flagler's goal to build a railroad to reach all the way to Key West.

 

Two Peas in a Podcast: Barb's Tea Service launches new podcast (with special guest!)

Learning the recording ropes. Barb and Chris Gulley, two peas in a podcast.

Barb's Tea Service is excited to share we've entered into the world of podcasts. Starting this week, we launched our very first recording of "Barb's Tea Service presents:  But First Tea. . . " courtesy ONTV studios in Lake Orion.

In our inaugural podcast - a full twenty minutes (!) - we introduced Barb's Tea Service, covering who we are, what we do, and our favorite themes/obsessions (Gilded Age, Downtown Abbey, Jane Austen, lemon curd, knife rests. . . ). In addition, we did a high level Tea 101 discussing the different types of tea, which lead to more conversation on what one can add to tea. 

Recording our the first BTS podcast this week.

Our very special guest was Chris Gulley, tech support and self-labeled "arm candy".  While manning the sound board, Chris also shared some tea and tea-adjacent stories, including our last tea outing in NYC at Lady Mendl's as well as "spilling the tea" on our Bridgerton tour in Bath, England last Fall. Chris outed the winner of the Bridgerton Trivia contest given by our tour guide.  For the full story, you'll have to listen to the podcast. But here's a preview from our YouTube channel:

Sneak Peak of Barb's Tea Service's first podcast! (youtube.com)

Chris, tech support and "arm candy"

While we had a great time, we also know, our first entree into this podcast world came with a few bumps and missed signals. As Chris noted, it's a learning curve, and we're sure we'll smooth out the rough edges soon. We adhere to the advice of 1980's singer/songwriter, Howard Jones:  things can only get better!

We'll upload the link to the podcast as soon as ONTV posts it on-line. In the meantime, we're back in the studio next week for the second in our series, "But First Tea. . ."  We hope you'll give us a listen!

Waiting for the tea kettle to signal, that's a wrap!

We're also looking for topics you'd be interested in hearing more about as well as other guests you'd like us to host. Let us know at barb@barbsteaservice.com.