Monday, November 6, 2023

Edinburgh Castle: Home to King James I and VI, the Stone of Scone and a picture of the Crown (and, more bad parking!)

 

Barb and Matt walking the grounds of Edinburgh Castle




Although we (my husband, Chris and I along with our favorite NY couple, Matt and Jenna) visited Edinburgh Castle last month, it seems somewhat fitting to write about it in the first week of November, as the future monarch born in this Scottish royal residence was also the survivor of an "explosive" attempt on his life by Guy Fawkes. The thwarted disaster, referred to as the "Gunpowder Plot" not only gave a boost to King James' reign, but inspired "Guy Fawkes Day", a British celebration that takes place every November 5th.  (So, we're close!)



Matt and Jenna at the centuries-old castle which has served as a prison, a fortress and a royal residence



And, although our journey to this ancient castle was not as dramatic as snuffing out a grand explosion, it was not without a few perils. But we'll get to that shortly. (Any chance it involves parking?  Aye, laddie, it does).

Edinburgh Castle sits high on its rocky terrain, a bookend to the other regal domain along the Royal Mile, Holyrood Palace (which we visited in 2018, see  blog story:  Hurray for Holyrood). In its many centuries of existence, Edinburgh Castle has been a prison, a military fortress, and a royal residence. Our interest laid primarily with the latter and, once we had climbed to the top of the hill, we quickly headed to the section of the castle that houses the Crown Jewels.



View of the city from Edinburgh Castle




While we were expecting a line to view the royal treasures, we were surprised to be turned away from queuing up until the "technical issues" were taken care of. Not to be deterred, we, somewhat unobtrusively, hovered for a half hour at the ropes before finally being allowed entry. After all of our patience and dedication, we were disappointed to discover that the crown of the Crown Jewels was not on display. It had been replaced by a picture of the crown on a plush, velvet pillow. Ironically, the no photographs policy was still being enforced. 



Home of the scepter, sword and photo of the crown




We did however get to see the sword and scepter, that with the crown, make up the total Crown Jewels package - the oldest royal regalia in the British Isles.

In addition, we saw the Stone of Destiny. For a rather plain looking rock, it has been coveted by many, and, impressively, witnessed the coronation of monarchs in England for over seven hundred years, most recently King Charles III. (For more on the Stone of Destiny, aka the Stone of Scone, see our May blog:  Coronation Week:  Tea and Scones and Stone of Scone).  

But, to be honest, even if they allowed pictures, I'm not sure I'd be that eager to snap one of a rather dull, large, grey, square-shaped rock, no matter its pedigree. 



Birthplace of James VI




Aside from the Crown Jewels, faux and all, we also viewed the room where King James VI and I was born. He was the son of Mary, Queen of Scots, and ruler of both Scotland and England (he succeeded Elizabeth I).  Near the noted birthplace is Laich Hall, where King James VI celebrated his golden jubilee. Over the dining area's fireplace hangs his Coat of Arms as the ruler of Great Britain and Ireland (a Scottish unicorn is joined by an English lion). Although King James never returned, his son, Charles I, stayed here before his Scottish coronation. That was the last regal visit. 


Laich Hall with James VI Coat of Arms, his son would pay last royal visit




Sadly, one in our party of four, never got a first or last visit to the top of the hill and saw neither the Stone of Destiny nor the photo of the Crown.  Chris was slaying the modern-day version of the scary, but imaginary, fire-breathing dragon:  the Edinburgh public parking app.  Like the dragon, there's signs that point to it, but, alas, it doesn't really exist. At least for drivers with a non-UK phone number and without a suitcase load of change.



Chris had 15 minutes of parking time before he had to slay the modern-day dragon, the parking app!



A real catch-22, the meters are fed either by change or a UK-phone-number- access to the app. No one answers the phone number listed on the meter, and, while we applaud the city's mission to operate cash-less, it also creates a shortage of change available to request from the businesses that line the Royal Mile.





Indeed, a Sisyphean task, public parking for US tourists is never quite within reach. 

So, while we did face some challenges with this castle, we still had a few good moments and a few good photos of real things. Not quite worthy of fireworks, but we'll save that for next Guy Fawkes Day. 
 


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