Monday, February 13, 2023

Paris (Part Deux): The City of Love with tearooms that we love!

Tea time in Paris at Angelina 


In anticipation of Valentine's Day, BTS is blogging about things we love:  chocolate, tea, potato chips and Paris. A rather eclectic grouping, with some overlap, but all worthy of our admiration. In our last blog, we highlighted Paris, the ultimate "City of Love". Today, we continue with Paris, Part Deux, focusing on our three favorite tearooms or Salon du Thes, in the City of Love.


Elysees Union, Proust and view of Eiffel Tower


Chris at hotel/home to Proust




But, before we start our tearoom adventures, a quick note about Elysees Union, our Paris Hotel. Located in arrondissement 16, a stone's throw from the Arc de Triomphe with room views of the Eiffel Tower, we found it was also once the home of writer, Marcel Proust. Little did we know then, that we'd be hitting other favored spots of the author of "Remembrance of Things Past".

And, so, with a twist of a title and borrowing from our own blog story of 2008, we begin our own "Remembrance of Tea Things and Re-pasts".


Angelina in Paris, tea repast


Angelina  is a charming tearoom on the Rue du Rivoli, less than a ten-minute walk from the Louvre. Created by Austrian confectioner Anton Rumpelmayer in 1903, and named after his daughter-in-law, Angelina quickly became a favorite spot of the French aristocrats and other notables, such as Proust and Coco Chanel. It's sumptuous environs with muraled walls and red carpet provided ambiance fitting its rich hot chocolate and divine pastries. It's also home to my most favorite Earl Grey. I brought back a tin - which quickly ran out - but, when our favorite NYC couple, Matt and Jenna, were there last fall, they restocked my tea supply with the same.



Angelina's Earl Grey 2008 (left) and Earl Grey 2022 (right)

Speaking of New York City, there is now an Angelina in Manhattan. In 2020, they built their first, and only, U.S. location in the Big Apple.  We look forward to visiting (and stockpiling) there this summer!



One of the Mariage Frere tearooms in Paris.  This is on the site of Henri Mariage's office.

Mariage Frere.  This tea company was founded in 1854 by the Mariage brothers, Henri and Edouard. Born into the business, the brothers had ties to family members who procured tea from Persia for King Louis IV.  Henri and Edouard established a tea wholesale business which stayed in the family until, as noted in GAYOT ("Guide to the Good Life"), new owners brought fresh life into the tea company, expanding the tea business from exclusively wholesale to retail. 

The first tearoom started in Paris in the same building of Henri Frere's office, located on Rue du Bourg-Tibourg.  This location is filled with history and impressive stock. Upon entering the shop, visitors are met with a mesmerizing wall display of glossy black tea tins filled with Marriage Frere loose tea blends. The restaurant is cozy and intimate, meaning not a lot of personal space, but it only adds to the European charm. And, if that isn't enough to impress, true tea enthusiasts will enjoy the tea museum on the second floor.


Bold claim:  Best cup of tea ever




Although we visited this tearoom in 2008, my bold claim which I said it then and I still hold it to be true: Mariage Frere is where I had the best cup of tea, ever.  Their staff is trained in excellent brewing and serving and, as many times as I've tried to replicate that cup of tea, I've never quite captured it.

Although there are no Mariage Frere tearooms in the U.S., I occasionally found tea to purchase at Williams Sonoma. Haven't seen any there lately, but, c'est vrai, you can purchase some blends on Amazon.com



Paris Ritz started by Cesar Ritz and purchased in 1979 by Mohammed Al-Fayed




Ritz Paris   Founded in 1898 by Swiss Hotelier, Cesar Ritz, in collaboration with French chef Auguste Escoffier, this luxury hotel and restaurant quickly appealed to the rich and famous with clientele including royals, Ernest Hemingway and (encore) Coco Chanel and (encore, mon ami) Proust.  


Exquisite decor and tea fare, but no pomp and circumstance of London



After  the death of Charles Ritz (Cesar Ritz' son) in 1976, the hotel experienced a decline and began losing money. In 1979, it was brought back to life by Mohamed Al-Fayed, father of Dodi Al-Fayed. For those who watch The Crown, you'll remember the scene where Mohamed negotiates this deal.

While this is truly a beautiful venue and the afternoon tea fare was amazing, it lacks a bit in the pomp-and-circumstances of the London Ritz. (In another BTS "bold statements", the London Ritz is at the top of our list for afternoon tea).

Merci, mes amies du thes. We have enjoyed sharing our "Remembrance of Parisian Tea Things and Re-pasts" and raise a cup of tea to you in the name of amour.



No comments: