Returning to Montreal, Old and New: Expo '67, Poutine, and Family Ties (Part 1)

Back visiting Montreal after numerous years.

Last month we were once again on the road:  a two-week trek that began with crossing the bridge to Canada to visit both Kingston and Montreal, then back to the U.S. via the Vermont border with extended stays in Burlington and the Hudson Valley in New York. We had several reasons that brought us to these destinations - primarily family and exploring our roots -  but, of course, at Barb's Tea Service, other elements were key to our journey including stops at a presidential home, Gilded Age filming sites, and sampling regional cuisine from fudge to poutine. (You know, when in Rome. . .one must sample the mysterious blend of french fries, gravy and cheese curds.)

Chris and Barb on Montreal City tour bus, revisiting Expo sites and learning about rooftop views.

More details on many of our visits will be in upcoming blogs, but today, we're starting with Montreal - a city, like myself, with French roots and one that neither my husband, Chris, nor I had been back to in almost sixty years. 

Expo '67

As young children, both Chris and I went to Montreal with our respective extended Canadian families to see the "International and Universal Exposition", aka, "Expo 67". Chris went with his parents and cousins from Kingston. I also went with my parents as well as my three older brothers, and from Windsor, an aunt, uncle and cousin, who was my age, but ten times more advanced in the "free-spirit" category.

Rooftop views at Auberge du Vieux-Port. Right of the Ferris wheel, US pavilion dome still remains.

I was reminded of this first trip to Montreal when Chris and I took a tour of the city this past July and our guide pointed out what remains of the U.S. pavilion, a silver framed geodesic dome, designed by Buckminster Fuller.  In 1967, it was a mix of pop culture and futuristic technology housing large posters of movie stars neighboring space capsules planned for the first voyage to moon. Imagine what it would have been like to see the future almost six decades ago.

Well, imagine is what we had to do, as we never went into the dome. My aunt had heard it was "too Hollywood" and dissuaded us from entering - although, my brothers recollect that the extremely long line may have also contributed to the "no go".

View from Auberge rooftop, US. dome pavilion right (right of Ferris wheel), Habitat on far left.

Another remnant of Expo '67 is the "Habitat". Originally designed as a revolutionary complex for low-income housing, it stands on Cite du Havre, an island constructed for the Exposition, overlooking Montreal's Old Port. We viewed this unique, concrete structure on the rooftop restaurant of Auberge du Vieux-Port. (Our city tour guide told us that this was the second best rooftop restaurant view in Montreal, but he never disclosed the first. Hmmm? Or, perhaps, we should say, "C’est un mystère").

Ironically, in spite of its origins, the Habitat is now a rather expensive condominium community. 

Habitat, originally developed for low-income housing, now a high end condominium community.

Both the U.S. pavilion (now an agricultural museum) and the Habitat are open for public tours. We're penciling in visits to these places for our return trip in 2027 (the sixtieth anniversary of Expo '67!).

Two of my brothers at Expo 67 (only photo found of the trip, to date)

Since Chris and I were relatively young during our Expo 67 family vacations, there's not a lot of the experience that we remember in detail.  However, while I vaguely recall some of the shows and rides and country pavilions that we encountered, one cafeteria visit vividly stands out as only someone under ten would find remarkable. Our extended families embarked on this wonderous place where, for a fixed price, you could put as much of their tantalizing food offerings that could fill your desires in the confines of your plate. While we were scrutinizing the varied delicacies, my cousin sped through the line, unnoticed by my aunt and uncle, until he reached the check-out, his plate brimming with two heaping piles, one of French fries and the other beans.

French fries and beans at Expo 67 - a precursor of present day poutine?

Although my aunt and uncle were none too happy -  and my brothers and I found it hilarious -  we may have all underestimated such culinary creativity. It does sound an awful lot like a Quebec comfort food that came to Montreal around the time of Expo '67.

Next blog up:  Poutine!