St. Andrews, Scotland: Teas, tees and Celebri-ties

Enjoying a pot of Earl Grey at vintage hotel overlooking the Old Course at St. Andrews

"The rain seemed to never go away this past weekend in Scotland, which shortened the Alfred Dunhill Links Championship to a 54-hole event." (SB.Nation, October 10, 2023).

We know this personally to be true - we were there and we were drenched. But, it was not a complete "washout".  While getting soaked by torrential rain, we also soaked in the history and aura of the oldest golf course in the world, St. Andrews.

Chris at the 18th hole of St. Andrew's Old Course. Pro-Am tournament delayed.

Soggy, but undeterred, we not only trod on the historic grounds of the Old Course, but spotted a celebrity whizzing by as a VIP passenger on a fast-moving golf cart.  Then, we capped off the afternoon inside the Rusacks dining room enjoying pots of Earl Grey with spectacular views of the legendary links. 

Chris on the border of St. Andrews - North Sea and Golf Museum in the background

Our journey began at the Golf Museum that borders the North Sea and St. Andrews. Here we learned that the original stick-and-ball game became popular in Scotland in the 15th century. Two versions evolved:  the first, a short game played in enclosed streets and churchyards using home-made clubs and balls; the second, a long game played by the gentry that used elegant (and expensive) equipment suited for playing in open parklands or coastal links. While the former died out, the latter continued to grow and flourish with the enthusiasm and support of politicians and elites.

Scottish royals played golf, but banned their subjects from playing. It was felt that the game distracted them from practicing their long bow skills, which were much needed for battle. It would be a few more centuries before company golf leagues replaced the archers needed to defend headquarters. 

Early golf balls made of stitched leather filled with feathers

On display at the museum were some of the very early versions of golf balls. They were made of stitched leather filled with feathers. They flew about 200 yards, but were easily damaged and went soft in the rain. (They'd wouldn't have had a chance the weekend of our visit.)

Chris takes the putting challenge.

The pressure is real.

An added interactive attraction at the museum is the Championship Putt challenge. The stage is set for an uphill putt, but with the simulated pressure (via video countdown and crowd bellows) of the championship at stake, one gets to hit the ball with choice of putter, ranging from ancient to modern (Chris selected an "in between") and await the results. Chris sunk the ball and the crowd cheered. (Thankfully, no virtual reality rain or wind gusts accompanied the experience).

Success and the crowd cheers!

From the museum, we walked the border of the Old Course, in brutal slanting rain and wind. Not only was the liquid sunshine pelting down, but gale winds were so fierce, our umbrellas were inverting and it was a struggle to walk forward. It was also a challenge to stop and take pictures without getting hit with a purse strap or wrist-tethered bumpershoot. 

In this climate, not surprisingly, the famed Alfred Dunhill Links Championship was delayed during our visit. This tournament is a Pro-Am challenge, so we were on the lookout for celebrities in the midst of unrelenting rain. On the treacherous trek to the Pro Shop to pick up a few souvenirs, in a passing, speeding golf cart, I saw a familiar, cheerful face framed with wildly flying white hair. Bill Murray! I was positive it was him, but by the time I got my phone out to snap a photo, the cart was too far away to capture the evidence.

Bill Murray in the golf cart way down the path???

However, once inside the Pro Shop, I mentioned to the manager, who was ringing up our assortment of logo loot, that I thought I saw Bill Murray a few minutes ago. He only responded with a polite "oh?" But one of the young clerks comically poked her head around the counter, clearly out of her boss' peripheral vision, and shook her head "yes" to affirm my celebrity sighting. I knew it!

Rusacks overlooking the Old Course

Earl Grey never tasted so good.

What was left to do after fighting all the elements and catching a passing glimpse of Bill Murray? It had to be tea time, of course. We found refuge at Rusacks, a charming 19th-cenutry hotel on the edge of the Old Course. We scored a lovely table overlooking the links, and ordered two pots of tea. Truly, Earl Grey never tasted better or was more welcomed. 

Despite the weather, a great tea and tee experience.

To the timeless saying, "into every life, some rain must fall" we add: while it may delay a tournament, it needn't hamper tea time or tee time history. . . or a close encounter with Nick the Lounge Singer.