Saturday, September 1, 2018

Going way back with Chatsworth: Afternoon tea and tour of the 'real' Pemberely No. 2

Chatsworth, home to Bess of Hardwick, Deborah Mitford and Mr. Darcy

Chatsworth and I go way back and it was a thrill to finally meet this great estate in person.

Not only does Chatsworth have a fabulous alter ego as Pemberley, the impressive home of Mr. Darcy in the "Pride and Prejudice" movie featuring Keira Knightly and Matthew MacFadyen, but its real life history is equally amazing.  I've been a fan of both fictional and factual residents for years. When I visited Chatsworth in May of this year, I felt like I was reconnecting with an long time pen pal - so many stories shared over the years and, now, we got to meet face-to-face.

Saying "hello" to an old friend.


Chatsworth began with Bess of Hardwick in the mid-16th century. Bess, a native of Derbyshire, came from modest means, but through ambition and strategic unions (four marriages), she became the second richest woman in Elizabethan England.  She convinced her second husband, Sir William Cavendish, a man who amassed great wealth taking down monasteries as a commissioner under Henry VIII, to build Chatsworth in her home county. It was this union that started the Cavendish dynasty and today the estate is still owned by descendants of Bess and Sir William.


A portrait of Bess of Hardwick hangs in Chatsworth.The home is still owned by her descendants.



I knew of Bess and some of her famous family line, including Deborah Mitford, through a couple of page-turner biographies by Mary Lovell"Bess of Hardwick" and "The Mitford Sisters".(Coincidentally, I was introduced to each book through separate sources, my mother and my former boss - see blog from May, 2016, Mother's Day: One for the Books).


The Mitford Sisters by Mary Lovell. Deborah Mitford was Duchess of Chatsworth


When I was writing for an on-line newspaper, I interviewed Mary in 2014  shortly after the death of Deborah Mitford, who had married the 11th Duke of Devonshire and heir to Chatsworth.  Mary had personally met Deborah and was given access to some of the family's archives. Deborah's son is the 12th Duke and currently resides in the family estate. It's still a private home, although open to the public for tours.

Bubnell Cliff Farms, a charming B & B on the Chatsworth estate. "Neighbors" are peaceful and laid back.


We, of course, toured the manse, but also, to immerse ourselves the Derbyshire experience, we stayed at Bubnell Cliff Farms, a working farm and bed and breakfast on the estate of Chatsworth. It's just a two mile drive (or 30 minute walk) to the great home and certainly gives you the feel for the English countryside way of life. Bubnell is cozy, peaceful and as laid back as the cows who stroll the grounds of the  B &B.

Morning tea time from our room at Bubnell Cliff Farms


After a relaxing night at the inn and a delicious hearty breakfast, we took our short drive to Chatsworth where history and fantasy collide in over 30 rooms of art and antiques, in particular the Sculpture Gallery, created by the 6th Duke of Devonshire in the early 19th century.  It is here, that Kiera Knightly's Elizabeth Bennet takes a turn about the room and blushes at the sight of some of the unadorned statues in Mr. Darcy's home.


Keira Knightly's Elizabeth Bennet tours the Sculpture Gallery




The Sculpture Gallery may make a lady blush. 


In fact, Matthew MacFadyen's Mr. Darcy's bust still remains at Chatsworth and is displayed in the gift shop. Visitors are warned, "please do not kiss".


Matthew MacFadyen's Mr. Darcy bust resides in the gift shop with a warming: Do no kiss!


Other highlights of the tour: the beautiful dining room, one of the first indoor showers set up in a guest room and the tulip vases.  We learned the latter were very  popular in 17th century when "tulip mania" swept Europe. The market plummeted as quickly as it rose, and thus is considered one of the first examples of an economic bubble.  (Think of it as today's Bitcoin).


One of the highlights of Chatsworth, the beautiful dining room.


An early indoor shower in the guest room
Tulip vases, a sign of wealth. Compare with today's bitcoin.

The last, but certainly not least, of the highlights was afternoon tea on the grounds (was there any doubt?).  In the array of shops and eateries around the mansion, we stopped at the Flying Childers restaurant which offers a "Wedgwood Afternoon Tea". Scrumptious scones and savories, along with deliciously brewed tea, are served on exquisite Wedgwood china.  Channeling our inner duke and duchess was not difficult here.



Afternoon tea at the Flying Childers. Tea, sweets and savories are served on Wedgwood china.







An amazing visit to another  place that brings together so many connections that I ardently admire and love. 

Ah, yes, Chatsworth and I do go way back and I certainly hope we get to go back very soon!



Chris and I were first in line on the day we came to tour. We'll be back!




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